Greetings gang!
Ready or not, here's episode #5. BTW, Roland, are you planning to share your Journal
with us?
Harlech & Dolwyddelan Castles, 29 Jul 2000:
Breakfast at 8:30 or so... and the usual. Roland and Unc decided to go to Harlech Castle
for the day. Although my interests didn't lie in ENGLISH castles, I felt Priscilla
would enjoy it...the seacoast sounded great to me... and, after all, a few of our Welsh
cousins did lay siege to Harlech, so why not.
First Priscilla and I went to Spars Grocery to photocopy the papers Olwen had lent me
before going to the Tourist Information Center at the south end of Bala. Priscilla wanted
to purchase a book I had found previously, and I needed stamps. While there I called Robin
regarding out meeting. He was very friendly and apologized for not writing back the last
two times I emailed him. He suggested possibly getting together on Tuesday. I tried to
call Roy, but there was no answer. We then returned Olen's genealogical papers I had
borrowed and asked her to call Carys and book us another day at Fron Goch so we could
visit Rhiwlas. I gave her my last jar of Merionberry jam (Oregon is known for it).
We then left for Harlech and when we arrived we ate our lunch on the park bench that we
had bought at a shop in Bala. Priscilla decided on a sausage roll while I chose a meat
and veggie pasty. I had purchased us water and two candy bars at Spars as well...what a
healthy lunch! <G> As we sat there munching, Roland walked by us and I called to
him. He was returning to Unc who remained at the castle. While there we bumped into them
off and on and took some time to chat.
Yes...another history lesson! (Don't you just love it! <G>)
Harlech Castle -- When Harlech was built the sea was half a mile closer and nearly
surrounded the castle as the water swept into the harbor around the massive rock on which
it sets. This created a large moat that protected all but the eastern side. However, the
rock of the cliff was cut to create a moat all the way around the castle. This site was
that of an earlier Welsh fort called Caer Collwyn and the ancient legend that this was
the home of Bran the Blessed and Bronwen of the White Neck is not a legend but fact.
Regardless, in 1283 Edward I arrived at Harlech and built his castle so that "no more
Llywelyns would rise to threaten the sovereignty of England." (Castles of Wales by
Alan Reid, p. 87) It was all but finished by 1290, sporting a twin-towered gatehouse.
Some of the castle walls were 12 feet thick.
In 1294-5 Madog ap Llywelyn's uprising against Edward proved in vein. Edward
had received help and supplies from his castles in Conway and Caernarvon by way of the
sea. Harlech then became a prison for Edward's captives from Scotland, but began to
fall into disuse and neglect by the early 14th century. In 1400 (other sources say 1404),
Owen Glyndwr revolted and with the support of the French fleet in the Irish Sea, he
captured Harlech. Owen made Harlech his capital and held at least one parliament there.
However, it was difficult to keep control against the English without more support of the
Welsh and he shortly was defeated (1408). His wife, children and four grandchildren were
taken prisoner as he fled.
After the War of the Roses and Henry VI was defeated in 1640 at Northampton, his wife
Margaret of Anjou took shelter at Harlech before going to Scotland to raise forces against
the Yorkists.
In 1468, our ancestor Dafydd ab Ieuan, who was staunchly Lancastrian, was the
"Constable of Harlech Castle." Harlech was besieged by the Yorkists led by Lord
Herbert, Earl of Pembroke and his brother Sir Richard Herbert. The "song 'The
Men of Harlech' was inspired by the hardships endured by the garrison." Dafydd
"held out well after other Lancastrian commanders in England and Wales had
surrendered to the Yorkists, and widened his fame by replying to one summons to surrender
with the boast that he had once held a castle in France so long against siege that all the
old women in Wales talked of it; and now he would hold a castle in Wales until the old
women of France talked about it. But eventually famine was once again the victor, and
Dafydd surrendered to the Herberts on honourble terms. The Yorkists were so impressed by
the Harlech garrison's bravery that when Edward IV at first refused to honour the
terms of the settlement, Sir Richard Herbert apparently promised!
the king that he would put Dafydd and his garrison back in the castle, and let the king
try to get them out --also offering his own life in exchange for Dafydd's, rather than
see his promise broken." (p. 88 of source)
After roaming around the castle walls, climbing the twin towers which now fly the flags of
Wales and England (one on each), all of us ended up at the gift shop together and bought
some books. At that point we decided to go to Dolwyddelan Castle just north and east of
Harlech. Llewelyn Fawr was said to have built it.
Exciting the parking lot, we had to go right and up the hill via a very narrow road with
parked cars to the left and steps info homes on the right. Priscilla and I pulled in the
mirrors and I had her watch the left while I made sure that if I didn't clear the
steps, that I would only hit the first one which was very low. Roland was forced to
follow me, but as his car was smaller, he probably had less problems. At last, out of
town we headed for Dolwyddlan Castle.
Back to history:
Dolwyddelan Castle in Caernarvonshire, five miles southwest of Betwys-y-Coed, is one
of two castles that guards a landlocked mountain pass which was once the medieval road
from the Vale of Conwy to Ardudwy. (p. 75, Wales: Castles and Historic Places by Wales
Tourist Board & Cadw: Welsh Monuments, Cardiff, 1990). This castle was extremely
important to defending North Wales.
Dolwyddelan is said to be Llywelyn ab Iorwerth (Llywelyn Fawr)'s traditional
birthplace, but it is unlikely that the present structure would have been built before
1170. "The first work at the present castle, consisting of a keep of two stories,
must have been built by Llywelyn sometime between 1210 and 1240. This replaced an earlier
castle on a rocky knoll in the valley bottom." (p. 9, Dolwyddelan Castle -Dolbadarn
Castle by Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments, Cardiff, 1994.) It is more probably that he was
born in this castle, perhaps by the same name, which was constructed lower down the
valley.
Llywelyn, who was among those who pressed King John to sign the Magna Charta in 1215,
established Dolwyddelan Castle as his home for many years. Also, Llywelyn ap Gruffudd,
grandson of Llywelyn Fawr, is known to have been at the castle on 9 Aug 1275 as he sent a
letter to the prior of Valle Crucis Abbey from the castle.. (p. 13, Dolwyddelan Castle
-Dolbadarn Castle by Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments, Cardiff, 1994.) In 1283 it fell to
the English, and Edward I refortified it.
After arriving at the location of Dolwyddelan, we took two attempts to find the closest
parking spot and made our way up the hill and steps to someone's home. The castle
seemed to be on private land and the owners had the task of collecting the fee for the
tourist board.
Tramping up the hill to the castle was a beautiful stroll. We found a stream and tiny
waterfall, a rocky and wooded path and beautiful views of the valley. As we neared the
castle ruins, the square keep visible, we were forced to keep our eyes on the path as it
was strewn with sheep "relics." Roland captured a wonderful photo of several
sheep in the hillside field while I ended up with the rear-ends of about four. Everyone
made it to the top in find order and a few clean outcrops were found on which to sit for a
short rest. It was a beautiful, sunny afternoon and if it weren't for the sheep, the
spot would have made a wonderful place to picnic.
Once back down the hill, we sat for a few moments on a patio of a cafe which was closed
before starting back to the cars and headed for Fron Goch.
Although my driving had improved, I did hit the edge of a road that had broken pavement
and had great trouble keeping the car on the road. Another car was in the other lane so
space was limited, but I held it together and on the road. Roland was behind me and
I'm sure there were stories to tell! No doubt he preferred to follow me WAY back from
that time one! Poor Priscilla spared me from her thoughts and remained a true lady!
Scared the crud out of me, for sure! THEN, I swore her to secrecy, but knew I had no
control over Roland and Unc, so you'll have to get their versions!
Back at Fron Goch, Priscilla and I paused for a time and then decided to go for Fish &
Chips. Before we could get out, Robin called and said Tuesday wouldn't work, but that
all of us could come for drinks at 5pm Monday. His wife, Diane, would be around on
Tuesday, so that Monday would be better, although he had to be in court all day Monday.
He said he would give us a tour of the house then.
Carys and Dewi asked about the family genealogy as they were concerned that they may have
been telling people wrongly. They knew that Sarah Evans was the ancestor of Abraham
Lincoln (At least some people believe so, although this is currently disputed), but Carys
thought her father was Evan ab Evan. I explained that is was Cadwallader ab Evan,
however. She told me about the new B & B across the street and some general
chit-chat. For the evening, I loaned her my lineage that I had brought. It was nearly
8pm and Priscilla stuck her head in asking to go for dinner. We had our fish and chips
and I called Roy. He told me of the prettiest Welsh Church in all of Wales. He had
restored the Bible there and the church has an effigy of our ancestor. We decided to try
to see it and to go to Llangollen tomorrow.
Back at the house, Roland was sitting with an English woman from Kennewick and soon her
husband and Unc entered the parlor. After a time, I realized I needed to regenerate and
went to my room. It had been a harrowing day...at least so behind the wheel! <G>.
I started hunting for the name of the town that contained the church Roy had mentioned and
read about Valle Crucis and Elseig's Pillar for tomorrow's adventures...
To be continued......
Best wishes,
Emily