There are two options plat as two separate pieces with one meander per piece
and then "fit" them together or estimate one of the meanders based upon a
----- Original Message -----
From: "William B Clark" <dadster3(a)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 6:02 PM
Subject: [DMU] Plotting w/two meander lines ( DEED-MAPPER-USERS-D Digest V04
I've had a number of situations like this, either with creek
"up the road" to someplace or "along so-and-so's fence" or
similar. The problem is that the DM plot stops when it doesn't have both
a direction and a distance, a shortcoming that I hope will be addressed
in future versions.
I've started drawing out the separate sections by hand on graph paper at
the topo map scale of 2000 ft/in. Equipment is fairly inexpensive and
it's something to do on a rainy day. You will need (1) a protractor. I
use a round one with degree scales running in both directions. This
kind of protractor lets you read direction directly. (2) an engineer's
scale in 10ths. You will need to convert chains, poles, rods etc to feet
and it's easier to work in decimals. (3) some clear plastic. Overhead
projector material is too expensive. I bought a pack of clear plastic
report covers, not the thin ones for documents but the thicker ones
suitable for bound reports. You can cut them to any size, but I've found
that quarter sheets work well. (4) A pack of water soluble fine tip
colored pens like Stanford Vis-a-Vis. (5) some masking tape.
Draw what you can of each side of the unknown lines at different places
on the graph paper. Remember that you can plot in reverse just by using
reciprocal directions (N5E = S5W). The grid lines are your indexes for
N-S and E-W. Trace your lines for each piece of the plot on to separate
pieces of plastic w/the markers, making whatever notes you need and using
whatever colors you need. (I trace hard lines in black, meanders in blue
and conditional lines in green) Make sure to put a N arrow on your
tracing. You need this to keep your drawing oriented properly as you
move around the topo.
Now you have two separate plots. Move them around on the topo until it
looks like you have a fit that meets all the conditions of the deed.
This is easier of course if you have some identifiable point like a creek
mouth, ford etc. somewhere on at least one of them.
Once you have something that looks good to you, tape them in place.
Connect the dots to make the plot. Using your protractor and scale,
measure the direction and distance of the new lines. These will be very
approximate, but close enough to get started.
Plug these computed lines into DM as conditional lines and see how close
the plot matches to the deed acreage.
This can be very tedious, and it doesn't work every time. I've done some
that were w/i a few acres and others that were off by hundreds of acres.
When it does work, however, you have an approximate plot that is good
enough to get an idea of the property. You may improve the plot if/when
adjoining landowners are located. I usually color code plots that are as
iffy as some of these turn out to be and add remarks to the text for
Costs: about $5 for a good protractor; $5-7 for a scale, $3 for a couple
of pads of ¼" grid paper; $5 for a set of 5 colored pens; <$10 for a pack
of 25 clear plastic cover sheets; $3 for a roll of masking tape.
You could probably do this in DM by setting up dummy deeds for the parts
on either side of the unknown lines, but it has seemed easier for me to
just do it by hand.
Plotting & plodding in Elbert & Hart Co., GA
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